Uzupis Republic: The Most Absurd Place I’ve Ever Loved

There are places in the world that feel like they were made for travellers. Not in the commercial sense, with gift shops and guided tours, but in the way they open up your imagination, make you question the rules we live by, and remind you that borders are mostly just lines someone drew a long time ago. Užupis is exactly that kind of place.

It’s technically a neighbourhood in Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania. But ask any local in Užupis, and they’ll proudly tell you it’s a republic. Not recognised by the UN or the EU, but very much recognised by the people who live there and the curious travellers who find their way in. It declared itself independent on April 1st, 1997, and has been running with the joke ever since.

When I first walked across the bridge into Užupis, I had no idea what to expect. Within an hour, I was completely hooked. The flags, the signs, the odd little installations tucked into every alley, the soft hum of a place that doesn’t care what it’s supposed to be. There’s something so wonderfully unfiltered about it. Just a community of people who decided to live life a little differently.

Užupis has everything a country should. A president, a cabinet, a national anthem, and a constitution. That constitution is displayed on a wall in multiple languages, 23 to be exact, and it’s not just filler. It’s genuinely thoughtful. It includes articles like “Everyone has the right to idle” and my personal favourite: “A cat is not obliged to love its owner, but must help in time of need.” Very whimsical, yet manages to poke fun at the structure of government while still proposing something that actually feels more human.

One of the many things that makes Užupis so endearing is its currency. The EuroUžas. It’s not widely circulated, but it’s very real within the republic. What makes it even better is that it’s based on the beer standard. Its value is tied to the cost of one beer in the Barliament, which is their parliament by day and a bar by night. It’s only considered legal tender one day a year, April Fools Day, when the whole republic throws a massive party. Honestly, given the way global markets fluctuate, I wouldn’t be surprised if the EuroUžas is more stable than some actual currencies.

I had a EuroUžas note. A beautiful, ridiculous little note that represented everything I loved about the place. And I lost it. Somewhere along the way it disappeared, which has only added to its legend in my mind. It also gives me the perfect excuse to go back and get another.

And then there’s the art. Užupis is overflowing with it. Murals stretch across old brick walls, statues peer out from unexpected corners, and poetry is scrawled on windows. Some of it is polished and planned, but a lot of it feels spontaneous, like someone had an idea and just went for it. There’s no approval committee, just expression for the sake of it.

At the centre of Užupis stands the Angel of Užupis, a bronze statue blowing a trumpet. It’s the unofficial guardian of the republic and one of its most recognisable symbols. On April Fools Day, the town’s fountain flows with beer, not metaphorically, but with actual beer. People gather around with mugs and plastic cups and laugh like they’ve all shared a secret the rest of the world hasn’t figured out yet.

But despite all the fun and absurdity, Užupis isn’t afraid to get political. When they named a square in honour of Tibet and granted the Dalai Lama honorary citizenship, China responded with predictable outrage. The people of Užupis didn’t back down and they’ve made a habit of speaking up for peace and independence.

I love Lithuania. It’s a country that I want to keep going back to. If you ever find yourself in Vilnius, walk over the bridge into Užupis. Better yet, go on April Fools Day. That’s when the republic opens its arms to the world and invites everyone to be a citizen, even if just for one day. You don’t need a visa. Just an open mind and maybe a cup for the beer fountain. And if you’re like me, you might leave with a EuroUžas in your pocket, assuming you don’t lose it, and a heart that feels a little lighter for having seen what’s possible when people decide to imagine something different.

If you fancy reading more into the wonders of Užupis, I recommend browsing through their official website.

Long live the Republic of Užupis. I’ll be back for my EuroUžas. 🍻

I visited Lithuania in March 2024 and it quickly became one of my favourite destinations to photograph. To see the full collection from that trip, head over to the gallery.

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